How a Suit Should Fit: A Complete Guide for Every Body Type

Sep 24, 2024

If you're familiar with our business, you've probably heard our explanation of what custom is, and why we believe it's so important to have your suits made just for you. But to really prove our expertise on the matter, we've put together this article that specifically outlines our philosophy on how a suit should fit. These universal principles of fit are critical to understand no matter your body type, from the collar of your jacket to the break of your pants.

Be sure to watch the video, where we review two real examples of different body shapes: one shorter and broader, and the other taller and slimmer. We'll cover what to look for, common fit issues, and how we approach each unique individual to ensure their suit is tailored to perfection.

How a Suit Jacket Should Fit

1. Collar Fit

how a suit collar should fit

The collar is the starting point for a great-fitting suit. A well-fitting collar should sit snugly against the back of your neck, without any gaps or rolls. A common issue with suits is the "collar roll," where excess fabric bunches up behind the neck. This happens when the suit doesn’t align properly with your body, creating an uneven look. On the other hand, a collar gap occurs when the collar doesn’t sit flush against your neck, creating an unsightly space. Both of these problems can be corrected by a tailor, but when shopping for a suit, ensure the collar fits as close to perfect as possible to avoid extensive alterations.

2. Shoulder Fit

Next up is the shoulders. How a suit should fit often starts with this area, as it's the most difficult to tailor. The suit’s shoulder should smoothly transition from the top plane of your shoulder down to the sleeve, without creating divots or tension. For broader men, like the example in the video, you may notice a slight divot if the shoulders are too narrow. In that case, opting for a larger shoulder measurement or adjusting the shoulder pads will create a more flattering silhouette. Meanwhile, for slimmer individuals, the shoulders should not be too loose. A properly fitted shoulder will have a clean line that doesn’t pull or wrinkle when your arms are hanging naturally at your sides.


3. Armholes

The armholes of a jacket impact both the look and comfort of your suit. Higher armholes allow for better mobility, as seen in the example of the broader body type in the video, where the individual could lift his arms comfortably without the jacket pulling too much. Lower armholes, which restrict movement and cause the fabric to pull at the chest or stomach, may need adjustment. Ideally, your armholes should allow you to raise your arms without the jacket pulling or creating tension across your torso.


4. Chest & Lapel Fit

how a suit chest should fit

The fit of the chest and lapels is crucial in determining how a suit should fit. Your chest should feel snug but not tight. Lapels should lie flat against the chest without gaping. When you see a lapel gap or flare, it usually means the chest of the jacket is too small, or the posture doesn’t align with the suit’s structure. In the video, the slimmer body type had a lapel gap when arching his shoulders back, illustrating how even minor posture changes can affect the fit. The chest area should have no excessive fabric or pulling, and the lapels should stay in place even when you move


5. Waist Fit

The waist of your jacket should be fitted but not overly tight. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to comfortably place three fingers inside the jacket when it’s buttoned. Anything tighter may cause pulling and discomfort, while anything looser will create a boxy, unflattering shape. For those who prefer a looser fit, some may opt for a jacket that allows a fist to fit inside, though this is more a matter of style preference. Keep in mind that the balance of the jacket from front to back is essential for a clean, proportional look.

6. Sleeve Fit and Length

How suit sleeves should fit

Proper sleeve length is another important factor when assessing how a suit should fit. Typically, about a quarter to half an inch of your dress shirt cuff should show below the sleeve of your jacket. If too much cuff is visible, the sleeve is too short. If the sleeve covers the wrist entirely and reaches your hand, it’s too long. Always check sleeve length with your arms relaxed at your sides, as checking while your arms are extended or raised will give you an inaccurate reading. Proper sleeve taper ensures a sharp look, with the sleeves falling smoothly from the shoulders down.


7. Jacket Length

Jacket length is a key consideration for balance and proportion. The general rule is that the jacket should cover the base of your crotch. For a traditional fit, the jacket can be slightly longer, while for a more modern, streamlined look, it can be shorter. However, both extremes—too long or too short—can throw off your overall appearance. In the video, both body types wore jackets that were slightly too long, highlighting the importance of proper length for a polished fit.

How Dress Pants Should Fit

1. Waist, Seat, and Crotch

how dress pants should fit

When considering how a suit should fit, it is nearly impossible to separate these three areas from each other. A well-fitting dress pant should sit comfortably at the waist without being too loose or tight. The seat (the area around your hips and rear) should fit snugly without causing any tension that pulls at the fabric or causes your pockets to gape open. In the video, the broader body type experienced pulling around the seat, causing his pockets to spread out—an indication that the pants were too tight in that area. For the taller, slimmer individual, the fit was slightly looser but could be tailored for a snugger, cleaner fit.

The rise, or the distance from the waistband to the crotch, is also crucial. A poorly fitted rise can cause discomfort and limit mobility. If the rise is too tight, you may experience pulling or riding up, while an overly loose rise will create excess fabric that bunches up in the front. Ideally, the crotch should allow for easy movement without too much extra fabric.


2. Pant Taper & Length

dress pant breaks

Dress pant taper and length are often a matter of personal style. However, knowing the difference between a full break, half break, quarter break, and no break can help you choose a flattering look. A full break means the pants rest heavily on the shoe, creating a fold or dimple in the fabric. A half or quarter break is more modern, with the pants creating a slight fold or none at all. In the video, the taller individual had a half break, while the shorter individual had a full break with too much fabric bunching up. Ideally, your pants should complement the rest of your suit, with the break based on your personal style preference.

Conclusion: Tailoring for Your Body Type

The core principles of how a suit should fit apply to all body types. From the collar to the pant break, each element plays a vital role in ensuring that you look sharp and polished. We believe it to be our mission to use our knowledge and expertise proven above to ensure everyone feels comfortable and confident in how their suit should fit.

If you choose to work with us, you'll ensure that every suit you wear fits perfectly, enhancing your confidence and style no matter the occasion. After all, the right fit is what transforms a simple suit into a sophisticated statement.

By following this guide, you'll be well on your way to understanding how a suit should fit and ensuring your wardrobe is filled with suits that are comfortable, stylish, and uniquely tailored to you.


Why a Suit Will Boost Your Confidence

Why a Suit Will Boost Your Confidence

03 May, 2023
Wearing a suit can have a significant impact on how you feel and present yourself to the world. A suit can make you look and feel more confident, competent, and professional. Here are a few reasons why a suit can boost your confidence: A suit commands respect When you wear a suit, you immediately look more put together and serious. It conveys a sense of authority and professionalism, which can help you gain respect from others. Whether you're going to a job interview or giving a presentation, a suit can help you project a powerful and confident image. A suit makes you feel more polished When you put on a suit, you instantly feel more polished and sophisticated. A suit is a timeless and classic garment that never goes out of style. The clean lines and tailored fit make you look sharp and well-groomed. This can help boost your self-esteem and make you feel more comfortable in social situations. A suit can improve your posture When you wear a suit, you're more likely to stand up straight and maintain good posture. This not only makes you look more confident, but it also helps you feel more confident. Good posture can improve your breathing, increase your energy levels, and even reduce stress and anxiety. A suit can help you focus When you wear a suit, you're more likely to adopt a professional mindset. This can help you focus on your goals and priorities, whether you're at work or in a social setting. By dressing the part, you can channel your energy and attention towards achieving your objectives. A suit can make you feel more comfortable Contrary to popular belief, wearing a suit doesn't have to be uncomfortable. When you invest in a well-fitted suit made from high-quality materials, you'll feel comfortable and confident all day long. A suit can help you feel more comfortable in your own skin, which can boost your overall confidence levels. In conclusion, wearing a suit can have a significant impact on your confidence levels. A suit can make you look and feel more put together, sophisticated, and professional. By projecting a powerful and confident image, you can gain respect from others, improve your posture, and even boost your focus and comfort levels. So the next time you're feeling a little unsure of yourself, try putting on a suit and see how it can transform your mindset and attitude.
Where to Wear a Suit

Where to Wear a Suit

03 May, 2023
Suits are a classic and versatile wardrobe staple that can be worn in a variety of settings, but there are definitely some places where they are more appropriate than others. In this article, we’ll discuss the appropriate places to wear a suit, from formal to casual settings. Formal Settings Formal settings include events such as weddings, funerals, and black-tie galas. In these settings, it is customary and expected for men to wear a suit. A classic black, navy or charcoal suit with a white dress shirt and a tie is a safe and appropriate choice. Business Settings Business settings include meetings, job interviews, and presentations. In these settings, it is generally expected for men to wear a suit. A well-fitted suit in a neutral color such as navy, grey, or black, paired with a crisp white dress shirt and conservative tie is the standard dress code. It’s always better to err on the side of formality in a business setting, as it shows respect for the occasion and the people you are meeting with. Semi-Formal Settings Semi-formal settings include events such as cocktail parties, fancy dinners, and award ceremonies. A suit is still appropriate in these settings, but you have a bit more flexibility to show your personal style. A lighter colored suit or one with a pattern such as pinstripes or checks can work well, paired with a dress shirt in a complementary color and a tie that shows off your personality. Casual Settings Casual settings include events such as a night out with friends, a casual date, or a weekend brunch. In these settings, a suit may not be necessary, but it’s still possible to wear one if you want to make a statement or show off your personal style. In these more casual settings, you can get away with a more relaxed fit and lighter fabrics such as linen or cotton. In conclusion, the appropriate places to wear a suit include formal events such as weddings and funerals, business settings such as meetings and job interviews, semi-formal events such as cocktail parties and fancy dinners, and even some casual settings such as a night out with friends or a casual date. It’s important to choose the right suit for the occasion and to make sure it fits well and shows off your personal style.
The Benefits of a Bespoke Suit

The Benefits of a Bespoke Suit

03 May, 2023
When it comes to men's suiting, there are two options: off-the-rack or bespoke. Off-the-rack clothing is pre-made, mass-produced garments that are made in standard sizes and sold in stores. Bespoke clothing, on the other hand, is custom-made, tailored to the individual's measurements, and designed to fit their unique body shape. Although off-the-rack clothing may be convenient and cost-effective, bespoke suits offer a range of benefits that make them worth the investment. Firstly, bespoke suits offer superior fit and comfort compared to off-the-rack clothing. Each bespoke suit is designed and cut to the customer's individual measurements and body shape, ensuring a perfect fit that is both comfortable and flattering. Off-the-rack suits are made to fit a range of standard sizes, meaning that they may not fit perfectly and may require alterations to achieve a comfortable fit. Secondly, bespoke suits offer unparalleled style and quality. When choosing a bespoke suit, customers have the opportunity to select the fabric, style, and details of their suit, creating a unique garment that reflects their personal style and taste. In contrast, off-the-rack suits are typically made with lower-quality materials and may not offer as much variety in terms of style and design. Another advantage of bespoke suits is the attention to detail that goes into their creation. Each bespoke suit is handmade by skilled tailors who take pride in their work and ensure that every detail is perfect. From the choice of fabric to the finishing touches, bespoke suits are crafted with care and precision to ensure that they meet the highest standards of quality. Finally, bespoke suits offer a sense of exclusivity and luxury that cannot be found with off-the-rack clothing. Bespoke suits are made to order, meaning that each one is unique and tailored specifically to the customer. This creates a sense of exclusivity and luxury that cannot be found with off-the-rack clothing, which is mass-produced and sold in stores to anyone who is willing to buy it. In summation, while off-the-rack clothing may be a convenient and cost-effective option for some men, bespoke suits offer a range of benefits that make them worth the investment. From superior fit and comfort to unparalleled style and quality, bespoke suits are a luxury item that can enhance any man's wardrobe and provide a sense of exclusivity and individuality.
A Guide to Mens Suit Styles

A Guide to Mens Suit Styles

03 May, 2023
Men's suits have been a fashion staple for decades, and over time, different styles have emerged to suit different occasions and personal preferences. We will look at several of the most popular men’s suit styles that you should know about and what the differences are. First on our list is the Classic Suit. This is the most traditional and timeless suit style. It features a single-breasted jacket with two or three buttons and matching trousers. It may be either a two or three piece with a matching vest. The classic suit is versatile and suitable for both formal and casual occasions depending on its color. As a general rule, darker colors are more formal while lighter is more casual. This applies to most suits regardless of style. Next up to consider is the double-breasted suit. This style features a jacket with overlapping front flaps and two vertical rows of buttons. Double-breasted suits were popular in the 1930s and 1940s and have made a comeback in recent years. They are a great option for formal events. Another suit style to consider is a slim fit suit. The slim fit suit is a modern suit style that is tailored to fit close to the body. It features a shorter jacket length and narrower lapels. The slim fit suit is a popular choice for younger men and for those who prefer a more fitted look. The Italian suit, similar to the slim fit, is known for its sleek, slim silhouette, but is tailored with a focus on the shoulders and chest. Italian suits are typically made from high-quality fabrics and are a popular choice for men who want to make a statement. Now, looking to the casual suit; a relaxed and informal suit style that is perfect for less formal occasions. It typically features a single-breasted jacket with patch pockets and a more relaxed fit than a traditional suit. The casual suit will generally be lighter or less conservative in terms of color and may utilize fabrics such as linen or even cotton. Finally, The Tuxedo. The tuxedo is the ultimate formal suit for men. It features a black or midnight blue jacket with satin lapels, matching trousers, and a bow tie. Tuxedos are typically worn to black-tie events such as weddings and galas. In conclusion, there are many different men's suit styles to choose from, and each style has its own unique features and benefits. When choosing a suit, it's important to consider the occasion, your personal style, and the fit of the suit. A well-fitted suit can make a man feel confident and stylish, no matter the occasion.
The Benefits of 100% Wool Suiting

The Benefits of 100% Wool Suiting

03 May, 2023
When it comes to buying a suit, there are many factors to consider - the fit, the style, and the fabric being some of the most important. While there are many types of fabrics used to make suits, wool is widely regarded as the most versatile and popular choice. However, there is often a debate over whether a 100% wool suit is better than a wool blend suit. In this article, we will explore the benefits of a 100% wool suit versus a wool blend suit. Firstly, it is important to understand what a wool blend suit is. As the name suggests, a wool blend suit is made from a mixture of wool and other materials, such as polyester or nylon. These blends are often used to make suits that are more affordable, durable, and wrinkle-resistant than 100% wool suits. While wool blends can be a good choice for some people, there are several advantages to choosing a 100% wool suit. One of the biggest advantages of a 100% wool suit is its breathability. Wool is a natural fiber that has excellent moisture-wicking properties. This means that it can absorb moisture from the skin, allowing it to evaporate into the air. This makes wool suits particularly comfortable to wear in warm weather, as the fabric allows air to circulate around the body, keeping you cool and dry. In addition to its breathability, wool is also naturally insulating, making it a good choice for cooler weather. This means that a 100% wool suit will keep you warm in cold temperatures, making it a versatile option for year-round wear. While wool blends can also be warm, they are often less effective at regulating temperature than 100% wool suits. Another advantage of a 100% wool suit is its softness and drape. Wool is a luxurious fabric that feels soft and comfortable against the skin. It also has a natural drape, which means that it hangs well and doesn't crease easily. This makes 100% wool suits a good choice for formal occasions, as they look elegant and sophisticated. Finally, 100% wool suits are often considered a better investment than wool blend suits. While wool blends are more affordable, they are often less durable than 100% wool suits. Wool is a strong and resilient fiber that can withstand wear and tear, making it a good choice for a suit that will be worn frequently. Additionally, a high-quality 100% wool suit will retain its shape and color for many years, making it a better value in the long run. In conclusion, while wool blend suits can be a good choice for some people, there are several benefits to choosing a 100% wool suit. From its breathability and insulation to its softness and durability, wool is a versatile and luxurious fabric that is ideal for suits. If you are looking for a suit that will last for many years and look great in any season, a 100% wool suit is a smart investment.
Share by: